Escort Direct Wire SmartCord (Red Light)
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Specification: Escort Direct Wire SmartCord (Red Light)
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Batwoman –
This is the second direct wire power cord that I have bought, both from amazon. I put one in my old car, and one in my new car! (was too lazy to take the old one out!) The hardest part is having the patience to find an ignition wire that you can tap into. On my last car, I found a wire under the dash, shaved some insulation off, wrapped the wire around it, taped it, and finally ran the cord up the A-arm. Pretty easy. On my new car, I had to go into the fuse box. I really didn’t want to do this… -____- I ended up using the wire tap thing that comes with this (the blue piece). All in all, it works just fine. I just wish I could have found a wire elsewhere! Works just as advertised! Also lets me keep my radar detector up in the blue tint strip to make it less obvious to thieves and cops. 😉 No more coiled up cord hanging down!
James L –
I used this to direct wire my Escort radar detector into my 2013 Golf GTI.PROs- Easy to hard-wire your detector and remove the unsightly coiled cord that’s hogging your 12v power socket.- Cables supplied with it are generously long, should be able to install a detector just about anywhere you need.- The cable to the detector is flat and easily squeezes into tight spaces around windshield to hide from view.- The controller is exactly the same as the SmartCord that came with the original detector and allows you to see the status of the device and remotely mute alerts.CONs- I wasn’t a fan of the hook and loop fastener used to mount the SmartCord controller onto the car. It sticks well to both the car and the smart cord, but they feel like they’re only loosely connect to each other. In reality it’s never fallen off and I doubt it ever will, it just feels like an unprofessional mounting option. I would probably skip the hook and loop if installing again and just use some good double-sided tape.My install was easy and comprised of the following steps:1. Determine the locations of the various components2. Route the wires appropriately3. Connect to power and groundWhere is the fuse box?– Driver’s side, open the door and it’s behind the panel in the center console.Where I wanted the radar detector?– Horizontal center of windshield, several inches above the dash to give a clear line of sight to the rear windowWhere I wanted the control panel?– I placed mine on the lower center console below and behind the steering wheel. This isn’t exactly ideal as I can’t see the lights as they’re blocked from view by the steering wheel, but I can easily reach the Mute button by feel, and that’s the most important feature for me.Routing the cables was surprisingly easy. The cord to the detector is flat and easily fits between pieces of trim so it can be hidden. I specifically placed the SmartCord control in a location that made it easy to route wires without removing trim panels.I fed both input power and detector output cords through the underside of the dashboard in the drivers foot well, and into the fuse box. I then routed the detector output lead up and out the top of the fuse box, around the bottom of the windshield pillar, and along the gap between the dashboard and the windshield until it reached the center. It took a bit of tugging along the path of the cable, but eventually I had enough length of cable to reach the detector and enough slack to allow me to hide it. I just poked the cable into the gap along the bottom of the windshield with my fingers, squeezed it between trim at the bottom of the pillar, and down into the fuse box.I had quite a lot of cable left over, but I’m sure all cars and locations being different they supply enough cable to cater to all. I just used electrical tape to tie up the excess cable and tape it down to the side of the fuse box to stop it rattling around.To connect to the power supply in my vehicle I used a Bussmann ATM Mini Circuit Converter (Add-a-Fuse) to expand an existing ignition-controlled fuse slot so that the detector only comes on when the ignition is on. The only tricky thing to be aware of is that these fuse adapters only work one way round, so if it doesn’t work the first time you need to flip it around and try again.Finally I needed to connect the negative lead somewhere. Most (all?) vehicles run the battery negative feed throughout the entire chassis, so all you need to do is find a (non-structual) metal screw / bolt that can be used to attach the negative lead to the chassis. I also used a multi-meter set to continuity mode just to be doubly sure I had a valid ground connection.In my case the attachment point for the chassis was quite a way from the positive fuse connection, so I just split the power cable down the middle (it’s built to do this, don’t worry) until I had enough cable to route the negative feed to a valid mounting point.I’m very happy with this kit and so glad to have free access to my 12v power socket again.
Dylan T. –
I got this so I could hide the cord to my radar detector better and this hard wire kit did the job! Just gotta wire the positive to the radio fuse and the ground to a metal spot screwed in. Then the smart mute part you have enough wire to put it anywhere in the drivers area. The Velcro that comes with it doesn’t really stick well so I just jammed it between my steering column and dash panel and it’s holding there well. But I’m sure you can get sticker tape and mount it wherever you like. Then the wire to the detector is very long. So long you could put the wire all the way to the passenger side!Overall very easy set up and very clean looking once all done!
Brett Sellers –
The Escort Direct Wire SmartCord with the distinctive blue light is a game-changer for Escort radar users. This direct wire power cord not only tidies up the look of my car’s interior but also provides a seamless and permanent power connection for my Escort radar detector. The blue light adds a subtle yet stylish touch, indicating when the detector is in use. Installation is straightforward, and the cord’s length is ample for versatile placement. If you own an Escort radar detector, this Direct Wire SmartCord is a must-have accessory that combines functionality with a sleek aesthetic. Upgrade your radar experience with this reliable and well-designed power cord!
JonathanJonathan –
Good quality kit and nice that you can attach the mute button so you don’t have to reach for the radar to mute alerts. My fuse tap kit came with a different ending than the spade connector and was initially confused but the included T tap connector made installation a breeze
SimonSimon –
I ordered this so I can hard wire my Escort Max350c for my X gen Honda Accord. It works quite nicely cuz if I want to mute the report all I need to do is just press the mute button instead of reaching up to the detector. I thought and found such a nice place for it in my Accord since the other two slots are not being used
Riggie –
I have an Escort Passport 9500ix Radar Detector and hardwired it today to my fuse box using an Add A Circuit Connector! The installation went flawlessly except for two minor problems one being I had a hard time finding a grounding source on my 2020 Subaru Forester that was easy to get at and the second removing the fuse with a fuse puller. I had one of those cheap plastic fuse puller tools and could not get the fuse out. I would recommend to anyone removing the fuse from your fuse panel to use a needle-nose pliers. I used a 5 amp fuse on the Add A Circuit from my radar detector and a 7.5 amp fuse for the power source for my mirror since this was the fuse it was already using. The cord itself is of fine quality and is easily concealed!
Sam A –
Always liked escort products and this one is definitely a win. I wish the cable that runs to the radar was slightly longer however overall good product
Revo –
I used this hard wire system along with a Blendmount to fully integrate my Passport 9500ix into my car as inconspicuously as possible.My car (2004 G35 Coupe) has a fuse box right at the drivers feet, just forward of the door. I used a fuse tap to draw power from the circuit that controls the auto-dimming mirror. So the detector starts right up with the car, and turns off with it as well. I also bought a quick connect just like the one used on the included wire tap so everything was “plug and play” for me, If I need to remove it later.I mounted the “remote” on the driver’s side of the center console, where the radio and AC controls are. It’s in a perfect spot so that I can both see it (which I’ll explain why it’s important in just a bit) and can reach it by leaning forward in my seat just slightly. It also can’t be seen by officers on either side of the vehicle. If the officer is on the drivers side, the steering wheel hides it. If the officer is on the passenger side, the center console hides it. Radar detectors are legal in CA, but it’s well known the cops give you a harder time if they see you have one.From the remote, there are two wires. One which goes to the power source, and one to the detector. I tucked the wires in behind where the plastic of the dash meets the carpet and routed both wires to the fuse box. From the fuse box I ran the other wire that connects to the detector up the A-pillar and across the front of the headliner and down the little tunnel that is used for the mirror’s auto-dim wire. It then comes out just a couple inches and plugs straight into my detector. There are no wires hanging anywhere and the detector sits very close to my mirror so, combined with my tinted windows, it’s almost impossible to see.Now, on the remote there are two lights and one button. One is a blue light which indicates power (you can buy another version of this which has a red light for this, but otherwise they are identical products), a yellow light that flashes when you get an alert, and a mute button. This is really nice so you don’t need to reach up to your detector and feel for the correct button – you can just tap the one and only button on the controller. Tapping it multiple times also locks out signals if you happen to have a GPS equipped “false alarm ignoring” radar detector.I’d have to say that my one and only complaint is that the remote has two separate wires coming out of it. A great, handy improvement would be to have the two wires be connected (like molded together) for about half the length, and those that need it to split up earlier can just pull it apart (kind of like speaker wire, where it’s 2 wires together but you can split the two conduits apart because the insulation for each wire is just held together by a small seam of insulating material). That would help make install a bit cleaner. I didn’t knock of a star because it’s a small complaint, but if the manufacturer ever reads this, it’s a suggestion they can take with them.
FilmbuffFilmbuff –
Not having the hanging, coiled power cord is so much less stressful driving top down by cops.The remote head unit is nice and the weird shape actually fits the C5 ashtray area and is small enough to hide inside and shut the ashtray compartment door.Be advised the ashtray is hardened plastic so don’t reef down too hard on it in a vise when you drill and dremel an access hole for the large in-line bus fuse or it will crack like mine did. They’re inexpensive on Amazon to replace.The power cable to the accessory jack by the Body computer and the phone jack to the Radar Detector head mounted by the rear view have about one foot of slack which you need because the head unit is in front of the ashtray in front of the entire radio bezel.It’s a tight fit. So the location choices of the head unit are narrow. The ashtray is blocked by your hand on the manual shift so I have it all the way right and it’s still barely visible. A cup in he cup holder will block it entirely.Wish the remote head had a Report button not just mute.All in all a much sleeker look and hides the radar detector better.If the phone hack cable was just one inch longer it wouldn’t be so tight removing the Radar Detector from the car for overnight parking.It’s a great value because nobody else is making a cable with the remote mute head.If the radar detector has no power, you probably have MANUALLY TURNED OFF THE POWER. You will have turn on power then MANUALLY TURN ON POWER on the radar itself. Seems obvious but after plugging it in and having power come on every time, I was perplexed as to why I was getting no power and suspected this cable. Not the case.