BOSS Audio Systems R1100M Riot Series Car Audio Subwoofer Amplifier – 1100 High Output, Monoblock, Class A/B, 2/4 Ohm Stable, Low/High Level Inputs, Low Pass Crossover, Mosfet Power Supply, Stereo

For the price this is the best deal I’ve seen. 66 bucks shipped for the amp and wires. I installed it in about 2 hours, hardest part was pulling up the panels and getting the wires through. The rest of the wiring was painless, they give u everything you need. I would highly recommend the add a circuit for tapping in to the fuse block. No wire splicing, super easy to take out later and worked well for me.About the amps performance: I hooked it up to a single 10 inch kicker cvr (Silver, older model) recommended for 400 max rms. I’m running this amp at 4 ohms, not 2. What I’ve found is that I have the setup that is recommended for longevity and health of the sub system. The amp is over powered for the sub, so I have to turn the amp down some, reducing the work load of the amp, and it’s in 4 ohm so that dramatically reduces the workload from the start. The subwoofer would become distorted at high levels so I turned down the output and now I’ve found the sweet spot where it hits really hard but also clean tones. I haven’t installed the remote control yet, don’t think I’d really use it. It does work but I think I’d just rather have the bass up all the time, maybe later I’ll get tired of it and want the quick adjustment feature. I’ve played really loud music for almost an hour with a lot of bass and gone to the trunk to check how hot it’s getting and it’s barely warm. Very impressed with the setup.I think getting a quality subwoofer, something that can handle all the watts you’re throwing at it well is more important than the amp being super accurate and high quality. Time will tell how this amp holds up but so far it’s been a great fit for 1 10 inch at 4 ohms. And 2 ohms I’d be willing to bet it would push 2 subwoofers well.The size of the amp made it easy to screw to the back of the 10 inch subwoofer box. It’s made for a pretty clean install. Then I made an L bracket and screwed in to the floor of the trunk and the box, it doesn’t move at all when driving.Keeping the trunk space usable was very important to me, so a little 10 is very noticeable, shakes mirrors, u hear it outside the car some, and is a great addition to my 2012 civic which has a loud factory setup, yet it doesn’t take up too much room in the trunk so it’s the best of both worlds in my eyes.Oh one note, the amp barely bumps at all with the bass boost option turned off. But once I turn it on it claims an 18db boost and it really comes alive. I tapped in to the rear speakers high outputs for my speaker input. Made it easy to run less wires(no rcas) and I didn’t have to pull the dash apart to get to the back of the head unit. The amp gets a crystal clear signal and handles the high output levels very well.

Sorry folks…But there are a couple of myths, being two pieces of (…dare I say it?) outright misinformation that have become attached to this compact masterpiece, …even though I’m sure both of them were offered with the best of intentions.As for me, I thought I’d wait until I’d driven it hard and bounced it around the Aussie Outback for a couple of months before any attempt at reviewing it.A little background: I’m an Audio Director/Sound Supervisor in my fifth decade of ongoing work in this field, most of it live (or “as live”) and on location.My Boss Audio R1100M is used to drive either full-spectrum sub plus line array or horn plus ported-woofer long range speakers (a choice dependent on the vagaries of weather and/or crowd numbers) at impedances from four to sixteen ohms, …the only constant factor being the need to rely exclusively on DC vehicle power.The verdict: …five stars. No doubt whatsoever.The Boss Audio R1100M delivers far more than something that’s roughly the price of a case of beer should ever be able to do.(What a crying shame that its excellent internal fan-cooling arrangements don’t actually extend to chilling beer. Now that WOULD be a world-beater…)To those well-intentioned myths:First, “The Remote Subwoofer Level Control doesn’t work.” Not when the amp’s switched to “Full Range” it doesn’t.When it’s in “Full Range”, it isn’t expecting to be driving just a subwoofer, is it? Switched to “Low Pass” (i.e. subwoofer) mode, the remote control works a treat.Second, “It’s under-powered.”Hang on a cotton-picking second, did you honestly expect to have mountain-moving power for the price of a case of cold ones?Now look at it’s main fuse. It’s 30 amps. That’s your lot, any more and it all goes dark and quiet until we replace the fuse.Time for some basic arithmetic, 12 x 30 = 360. That’s 360 watts of total power going in.Wait a second, my alternator kicks out a gargantuan 14.4 volts! Whoopee! Hurrah! Huzzah! Hallelujah! I’ve now got an earth-shattering 432 watts at my command!…Uuh, …um, …well, …er, …I WOULD have if everything inside the immaculately designed Boss-Box yielded 100% efficiency.Sadly, 100% efficiency from ANY power system is the stuff of Nobel Prizes and/or science fiction.(Trust me when I say that you won’t ever again need to consult anyone’s review of anything after YOU’VE developed a power system that’s 100% efficient.)Meanwhile, back in the “Real World”, guess what?With power being wasted to generate heat, run cooling fans and the losses inherent in each and every electronic step taken, the BEST amplifiers are around 25% efficient.25% of 432 watts?That would be 108, just a tad LESS than I (and others) have observed to be the continuous power actually (and reliably) delivered from this tiny Boss-Box into 4 ohms.The controls all do exactly what they’re meant to do. The sound is clean, gutsy and free of artefacts, so, by way of a conclusion, here’s the outcome of some OTHER basic arithmetic I did prior to buying it…I can’t buy an aluminium housing of comparable ruggedness for the price of this entire amplifier.

Components installed:- One Rockford Fosgate R2S-1X10 10-inch shallow loaded enclosure- Kenwood KDC-BT555U receiver/head- Boss R1100M monoblock amp- Sirius/XM SXV-200v1 tuner- Metra single DIN faceplate kit- Metra wiring harness adapterI wanted to use a local business for this installation, but they quoted me $750 to install $250 worth of components. So I decided to order the stuff from Amazon and do it myself. I got a much better head, a better amp, the Sirius/XM tuner (not included in the quote from the local vendor) and the same subwoofer/enclosure for less than $350. It took me parts of three days to do the install, but it was fun, I learned a lot, and I do quality work (even if I do say so myself).The bottom line is, the system sounds awesome. I had already upgraded the stock Infinity speakers in the front and rear doors with a set of Boston Acoustic speakers. I did this a few years ago when the stock speakers got wet or rotted and started buzzing. This gave me a tinny sound that had very little low end. That and the fact that I could not use my iPhone with this system finally prompted me to upgrade. I had never installed an amp before and didn’t have the first idea what would be required. Luckily a lot of info is available on the Internet that makes this stuff doable.The local installer had told me that this size subwoofer enclosure would fit behind the smaller driver-side rear seat in my Dakota Quad Cab, but that turned out to be incorrect. The alternative is to spend an additional $200-$300 to purchase a molded enclosure, plus the cost of the actual subwoofer. So I decided to locate the enclosure on the rear floorboard, snugged up against the middle console, facing backwards. I am still in the process of trying to decide how to anchor it there–it’s dangerous to have something that heavy not properly anchored down, as it could become the source of severe head trauma in a crash. I am thinking I’ll probably use some combination of velcro and home-made brackets. The one thing I have noticed is that, if it is placed directly against the back of the console, the console will not lift up and out of the way in the front seat. This is a problem for me, because that’s usually where I place my Glock when I’m transporting it but want to keep it out of view.. But, from a rear-seat occupant perspective, this configuration allows two people to still ride comfortably in the back, though it does extend slightly into each occupant’s knee space. It pretty much makes the middle seat unusable though, so if you need that much passenger room, you will need to spring for the molded enclosures that fits under that seat. Luckily I rarely have passengers riding in the back.The hardest thing about the install was running the 8-guage power supply from the battery through the firewall into the pax compartment. Using Internet research, I located the wiring harness grommet on the driver’s side, and was able to use a coathanger to get the wire through. I pushed the coathanger through and then electrical-taped the 8-guage power supply wire to the other end of the coathanger. First time it came loose, but second attempt worked like a charm.The wiring harness kit was pretty simple. The order is Kenwood wiring harness–>adapter kit from Amazon–>factory connections in my truck. The wiring is almost idiot-proof as it is pretty much color-to-color. The only discretion involved my truck’s OEM amplifier–I needed to connect its control wire and the new amp’s control wire to the single P-CONT wire from the new harness. If you understand that all these wires do is turn on the amps when the radio is powered up and turn them off again when the head unit is off, it’s a no-brainer to figure out you just need to wire both control wires to this same wire in the harness.To test the connections, I twisted all the wires together and electrical-taped them. Once I confirmed everything was working, I took the harnesses back into my house and soldered them and used rubber heat shrink around the soldered connections. I prefer that to the cheap crimp connectors included in the 1100 amp wiring kit I purchased at Walmart.The one thing that nearly threw me off was the amp’s “Protection” light that illuminated after I cleaned everything up and put the trim back on the interior of my truck. Luckily, I was able to search the Amazon user comments and learned that an improperly grounded amp is one of the causes. Sure enough, I removed the piece of trim under which I had connected the 8-guage ground wire to the body of the truck with a screw and saw that I had jarred loose the ground wire when I snapped that piece of trim back in. My advice is, if you get a “Protection” light on this amp, check the ground wire connection before you do anything else.I am amazed at the quality of the sound. The bass is amazing and it’s almost like having a new truck. I highly recommend these components.

Installed in my g35 with a kicker comp r 12” sub wired @4ohm and even being at 4 ohms it is very powerful. Bass knob is a nice touch as well.

i was skeptical at first but when i got it and installed it. it sounded so clean and nice so if your skeptical like i was go ahead and do it 💯