BOSS Audio Systems Ground Loop Isolator B25N noise Filter for Car Audio Systems
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Specification: BOSS Audio Systems Ground Loop Isolator B25N noise Filter for Car Audio Systems
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10 reviews for BOSS Audio Systems Ground Loop Isolator B25N noise Filter for Car Audio Systems
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$16.28
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Wayne –
Listening to music is probably my favorite hobby. I went through three different home built PC’s (have been building my own systems for a while now) to get rid of noise emanating from these builds i.e. Home entertainment PC based systems. This little box cleared up the noise completely. It does exactly what is was designed to do, i.e. get rid of input noise. For more details read on.I’m a PC enthusiast with audiophile taste but not their pocket. My previous system was an Amd FX-6350 CPU and a Sound Blaster X-Fi Platinum sound card for a 5.1 sound system. Two power amplifiers and 15″ and 12″ speakers for sub’s and front and other smaller speakers for rear and centre. My FX-6350 System had no noise problems but I was dissatisfied with it’s performance. I messed up my system striving to extract more performance from it. The system froze during a bios upgrade ending my MOBO’s life hence the need for my new build, an FX-9590 PC. I went for an upgrade of my sound card as well.The first new system an AMD FX-9590 with a sabertooth 990fx and an upgraded Soundblaster Z sound card was working well with the exception of noise coming from the sub-woofers and to a lesser degree from the front full range speakers connected to the pyramid PA-1800X and PA-800X power amplifiers respectively. The whining static like in and out white noise morhed with a high pitched sound of a few kilohertz was unbearable especially since my new sound card was rated @ 116db S/N ratio.I tried a different power supply and video card which helped a little but the noise was still there. Bought another MOBO but the thermals of that board was too low for my new 220w tpd processor, but worked well my FX-6350. I then sold the first MOBO the sabertooth 990fx which locked up on the boot screen. I thus gave up the second MOBO which according to my research had a few successful builds with a FX9590 CPU. I sold it along with the FX-6350. I’m now down three MOBO’s I have a powerful new CPU and no working system. I then purchase my final MOBO a Crosshair V formula Z and guess what the noise is back.I researched the problem on-line and tried sheilding the sound card with foil and cardboard – no significant difference. With my MOBO bios one could save various bios setting profiles, so I underclocked the machine significantly from 5.0ghz to 1.5 or 1.8 ghz. It helped but noise was still there but more tolerable but the machine’s performance was significantly diminished.. Frustrated with performance I went back up in clock speed and turned off two of the eight cores, it helped but not enough. I was convinced that the problem was processor based I had no intentions of buying another MOBO. SInce Sub-woofer output is mono I used two ten band equalizers in series i.e. channel into channel and then equalizer into equalizer and attenuated everything from 300 hz and above. total attenuation 12db per channel times 4 – 48db this yielded the largest reduction in noise and I used this system for a while but in a quiet room, anyone with a keen ear could still hear the faint noise.While searching for a better solution on-line I came across a number of possible solutions and one of them took me to a device similar to this one on amazon. I reviewed the specs and especially the reviews of devices similar to this one and despite a few negative reviews after careful consideration I decided on this one.That is a decision I will not regret. My noise problem persisted for several months and could be detected in a room from a distance of twenty feet or more feet even with the volume muted on my PC. I tried a number of possible solutions which had limited to no success at all. I went through three different motherboard at a cost of a couple hundred dollars and guess what the solution was this device available right there on Amazon for less than 10 bucks.I highly recommend this product it works. I experienced no audible signal loss as some reviewers claimed but I did experience full noise loss. I think it was designed for car audio but it certainly works for home audio. Now I can put my ear to the grill of my 15’s and hear no noise whatsoever with the PC soundcard volume at one hundred percent while nothing is playing. Thanks Boss audio for a great product.
Cassie –
These are amazing!!!! I have always liked BOSS products but I was skeptical of these when read the reviews. So let me give you short before the long. Buy them if you have static, buzz, or noise in your system. I installed a high quality sound system in my 1982 corvette. Bought all the harnesses and used retro sounds laguna beach radio. When I ran the rca cables to the amp I ran them up the center of the car as that’s the easiest and with a 40 year old car you want to avoid as many clips as possible. Well grounding on a 40 yr old fiberglass car is more difficult then you would think. So I grounded the radio through the factory harness with the applicable harness for my radio which is built specifically for this car. I also grounded the amp right to the battery as it’s located in the back right next to where I hid the amp. All sounded good until I started the car and got an abnormal buzz hum and just awful noise that would whine up with the rpm and would disappear after I had the radio at an ear blistering level. Well I was ready to try anything and found these. I didn’t think 2 $15 parts would fix my issue but figured “ hey if they don’t work I’ll return them and try something else” so I installed them today right after they got off the truck and before the Amazon drive could make it out of my driveway. These eliminated all the noise completely and took me 2 mins to hook up two sets. I installed them at the amp as I may be getting interference from other issues of running up the center of the car. But man does that system scream and what’s nice is I can listen at low volumes with out having to listen to that horrible buzz. I highly recommend these and if you read this review stop searching and just buy these. I will post a video of the difference once I have a chance.
Childeric12 –
Worked well for me. Alternator whine – GONE!!
Alexander –
I am using SUPER cheap amplifiers on my door speakers and subwoofer which are creating a bad ground loop whine. It gets louder and more high pitched when the engine is revved. I moved the ground everywhere trying to find a clean ground with no lucky, and even ran a completely separate run of wire straight to the battery and had the same whine which leads me to believe it is the cheap amps. All that to say I have a horrific ground loop issue, and I put two of these filters (one on speaker amp and one on sub amp) on my system and the whine is so faint you have to make conditions perfect to hear it.
Marc Jaffe –
This item solved the whine issue with my after-market vehicle amplifier.
Me –
I know boss is pretty cheap on a lot of stereo products but if you have any ground loop interference first of all check your ground connections make sure they’re actually good make sure there are no mishaps no splice wires before using this if you need to use this you might have messed up somewhere in the beginning how about this for a friend just because I did not feel like redoing his entire stereo and it worked but it still did not get rid of all of it still a good product but if you have ground interference you have it for a reason
David –
I have a Retrosound radio paired with a fosgate amp that installed on a 47 Chevy. I did all of the wiring correctly, have proper grounding and used best practices during the entire install. My battery is in the trunk on this vehicle. I had a alternator whine that I could not find the answer to. I thought I would give this a try and i honestly didn’t think it would work but it did. The whine is gone! I think that this is one of those items that may or may not work due to the severity of the ground loop. The whine I had before I used this filter was unpleasant but would fade as the volume was increased. That was fine if you wanted it loud but at low levels was very annoying.On a side note, if did not notice any sound quality loss after install.The downside is that they kind of ruin the look of my install as they are chrome and stand out next to my meticulously installed amplifier. Another downside is that I know I used them to fix a problem I shouldn’t have.
ploftager –
The Boss converter is a transformer with two primary windings, that accept the right and left stereo loudspeaker output from f.ex. a radio, a TV, or a cd-player, and with two corresponding secondary windings with line level signals for e.g. active speakers. The resistance of each of the primary windings is 17ohm, and energy dissipation in these resistances is no problem at the manufacturer’s sensitivity setting, irrespective of the max. output of your amplifier. The relative size of each output signal – the sensitivity – is adjustable by an attenuator from zero to about 38% of the input signal. The converter is set a cautious 33% sensitivity by the manufacturer, and as an exersize I changed it downwards to 20%, (within 0.2%), a bit more suitable for the Dynaudio BM5A active speakers, that the converter is to serve. My primary signal is from a Pure Sirocco 550 radio/cd unit designed for 8 ohms speakers. The resistance of the output circuits of the converter, when set to 20%, was 3.3kohm and 2.1kohm respectively for the two output channels, as measured with a multimeter. This difference in resistance may carry over to the resulting signals for the two active speakers, but this I could not tell with mine. The frequency response of the Boss converter is perfectly linear from 20kHz to around 100Hz with a very gradual fall off, and 50Hz being only 4% down in output, 30Hz 7-8% down, and 20Hz about 50% down compared to the (100%) 20kHz to 100Hz range. This diminishment is not noticeable with the Dynaudio speakers, but the converter is less suited below 30Hz. The sensitivity adjustment of each output is through a 3/4 turn of a set-screw, clockwise for higher gain. I used a sine-wave generator and an oscilloscope + a multimeter for the measurements and settings, but a 1volt 50 or 60Hz signal plus an ac multimeter with a 1000mV range would suffice for setting the sensitivity, because the setting at 50Hz is valid throughout the frequency range. You will appreciate, that replacing passive speakers with active counterparts in your home stereo system is quite manageable. Simply leave the old cables in place (or replace them with lighter ones), swop the passive and active speakers, and affix a converter to the back of each of the active speakers, with the loudspeaker cables providing the primary input. To feed the converter’s unbalanced output to the balanced input of my active speakers, I used an extra 4 inch mono phono cable (with a male plug) and soldered the center conductor to nr. 2 pin and the shield to the nr. 3 AND to the nr. 1 pin of an XLR connector for the input. The remaining hassle is to connect the active speakers to the mains supply. The Boss converter, exemplary in low cost and simplicity, is a perfect Hi-Fi level converter with no noise and no distortion in my listening experience. It may contribute to powerful Hi-Fi home stereo sound from a modestly priced radio/cd-player, via active, analogue speakers. One might argue for one star down, because, if not using the converter with the factory settings, accurate sensitivity adjustment is a bit cumbersome, as described, and documentation is very limited. The factory setting of 33% is perfectly sensible though, the only possible drawback being lower than usual nominal volume settings.
Zardonic –
TEN STARS! TWENTY STARS! PERFECT FOR STUDIO USE!This comes from a professional audio engineer and music producer.Read on so you understand the miraculous level of goodness this little thing packs for $8To give you an idea of the level of noise I was getting in my headphones, I have a 10 USB port hub, with a Roland Quad Capture, a Kaoss Pad, an Arturia Microbrute (ANALOG synth), Panorama P4 MIDI Controller (takes two USB ports), a Mininova, my typing keyboard, my mouse, and outside of the hub on the three remaining ports, an external hard drive, a laptop cooling pad and a Pioneer DJ Controller.Since my soundcard as amazing as it is only has two inputs, I have the Microbrute routed through the Mininova (unbalanced), the Mininova routed through the Kaoss Pad (unbalanced), and the output of the Kaoss Pad (unbalanced) to the two inputs of the soundcard for stereo. All three connected via USB with the rest of the stuff. Needless to say, the amount of hum I was getting was insane to the point I desisted from recording anything for a bit and stuck to soft synths, leaving the hardware for ornamental purposes and your occasional sound I had to filter the hell out of.I bought two of these BOSS things because I thought I could need more, and had all sorts of premium TRS cables, stereo DI Boxes and what have you saved for later on my cart, ready to buy them in case this didn’t work, but since it was $8 I thought it wouldn’t hurt to try.In short: with all that mess, ALL I DID WAS PLUG IT TO THE KAOSS PAD OUTPUT AND ALL THE HUM IS GONE.ALL OF IT.I even turned up all of the volume input and output knobs just to see if there was anything left. Nothing. Just pure, beautiful, analog hiss. No hum. Nothing.This thing saved me hundreds of dollars in USB filters, hum filters and cables, and all I’ve got is a bunch of cheap RCAs because all outputs and inputs between these synths are unbalanced. Also, don’t fall for the RCA marketing hype. No matter how cool an RCA cable looks, granted some will last more than others, but all of them produce considerable noise.Thank you BOSS for such an amazing product!P.S. Just so you know, I didn’t care, but maybe some of you would be concerned because the casing is not made of metal as it appears to be. It’s plastic. But that was not a problem for me. Not sure how it would work in a car though.
D Driesen –
Well I was having the dreaded hiss sound on a new install whenever the gain was high on my amp. It was annoying and I couldn’t get the most out of my system. I didn’t think this would do anything but I was very impressed. My first impressions it seems the alternator sound is completely gone. I have this hooked up on the main RCA going into my EQ. I’m impressed the sound was annoying whenever the car was running and music was muted or very low.